What's In Your Pocket?

For what seems like a simple accessory, the pocket square seems to be a stumbling block, it shouldn’t be.

I wear a pocket square every time I have a suit or sport coat on. It’s one of those “never leave home without it” items for me. I think that the pocket square completes and elevates an outfit. It doesn’t have to be something loud or boisterous, 8/10 times I am wearing a white linen one with a simple half fold. The beauty of this particular one is that you can wear it with anything… yes anything: a blue blazer, a multicolor color check sport coat, and most fittingly a tuxedo.

There are, of course, almost infinite options when it comes to choosing a pocket square. First is fabric, and your main choices are silk, cotton, linen, wool, or some blend of them. Then there is pattern, which can range from solids, dots, and geometrics to paisleys. Anything you can imagine also can be printed onto a pocket square. The way I think about patterns and color, especially on a pocket square, comes down to what I want to highlight. If I lay one flat and there is gorgeous ornamental design of a hunting scene or a cascade of geometric colors and shapes, I have to remember that I can't just hang the pocket square out of my pocket and let it drape down my chest. There are only going to be a few square inches of fabric showing out of the top of the breast pocket, so I have to pick what parts I want to highlight.

Let’s set the scene. I have on a navy blazer, white shirt and a more exciting coral tie with a large umber, wheat, and sage blue paisley. When I go to choose a pocket square, I want something that will compliment the tie, not try to compete with it. I will generally choose one of the minor colors in the tie, and use my pocket square to compliment that color and draw it out. It's important not to compete with the tie. In this case, by pulling the sage blue out of the paisley, it compliments the tie and pulls the combination together.

One of my favorite things to do is to take something that wasn’t originally supposed to be a pocket square and use it to add that little bit of extra detail. I have two items that I use as pocket squares. The first is a doily that was meant to sit on a table as a placemat for a picture frame or trinket. The other is a piece of a Japanese cloth from the Tsukiji fish market that my wife brought home from Tokyo. Doing this gives you something unique and interesting that no one else has. This also allows you to use your creativity. If you see a piece of cloth you like and could be used as a pocket square, go for it!

Cheers,

Jake Shields