What's Under the Hood?

So it's 1967 and you walk into a Ford dealership to buy the new Fastback Shelby GT500 Mustang in Dark Moss Green with white racing stripes. Before you even walk in, you know under the hood there is a 428 cu in V-8 topped with 2x4 barrel 600 CFM Holley Carburetors that pushes 360 horsepower with 450lb-ft of torque. All of that connected to a four-on-the-floor transmission that puts all that power through 10-spoke alloy wheels into some new Goodyear rubber. You know the body has a fiberglass hood, front-end, rear tail light panel, quarter panel extension, deck lid, and side scoops all to save weight and make the car faster. Giving you the edge in those train track drag races over those Camaros, Firebirds, and Barracudas.

We pay so much attention to what's inside our cars, houses, and our technology. We need to pay the same level of attention to our clothing. Where is it made? How is it made? Why is all that important?

When it comes to suit and sport coat construction, it's really important to know what's inside. The most important part of a suit coat is what's known as the “canvasing” which is a blended material woven from cotton and horse hair.

Fused

In lesser made coats there is no canvas at all (see above). They are made by fusing or gluing the outer fabric to a thicker interlining to imitate the structure that better made coats offer.

Half Canvas

Next up is what's known as half or three-quarter canvassing. These coats now include canvas usually through the shoulder, chest, and lapel (see above). As there is no canvassing below the top button, the fabric is still fused to an interlining to give the bottom half of the coat structure.

Full Canvas

Finally there is full canvassing (see above). The reason why this is the most coveted and sought after way of making coats is because in addition to removing all fusing/gluing from the coat, the canvas piece now runs the full length of the front of the coat. This combination gives the coat shape and structure from the shoulder, through the chest and lapels, and all the way down the front of the coat. This lightens the coat up and makes it much more breathable. Because of the way the canvas piece is woven, as you wear the coat your movement and natural body heat slowly mold the canvasing to your body. Think about your favorite dress shoes. If you look on the inside you can see the impression of your foot in the foot-bed. A similar thing happens to the canvas inside the coat. As you wear the coat, it will fit better and feel more comfortable.

This is why J.M. Shields only uses full canvas construction on all their suit and sport coats.

Cheers,

-Jake Shields